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Seller Inspections

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What Is a Pre-Listing Inspection and Why You May Want One

You may already be familiar with the need for scheduling a home inspection if you’re buying a home as a way to get more information about the property. But if you are planning on selling your home, it may also be a good idea to get your home inspected before putting it on the market. Although pre-listing seller inspections are not currently as popular as buyer inspections, there are certain benefits for sellers who get their homes inspected. Keep reading for more information about why you may want your home inspected before you sell.

What is a pre-listing inspection?

A pre-listing inspection is a home inspection that a seller schedules before listing their home. This kind of inspection is similar to a standard inspection that a buyer requests before purchasing a home; but, the major difference between the two is that the seller pays for the inspection. A pre-listing inspection includes detailed observations of a seller’s home’s major systems: electrical, plumbing, HVAC, foundation and structure, floors and windows, roof and siding. The inspection can reveal what repairs the seller can make before listing.

When a seller wants to better understand their home’s condition before a potential buyer arranges an inspection, a pre-listing inspection can be a good strategy to avoid surprises and handle major repairs before selling. A home in good condition is usually more attractive to buyers than a home that needs many expensive repairs, and a pre-listing inspection will reveal what fixes should happen before showing the home to potential buyers.

What are the advantages of a pre-listing inspection?

The primary benefit of a pre-listing inspection is it may help to determine a price to sell or when to accept an offer. A pre-listing inspection can offer a seller the peace of mind that comes with a more complete knowledge of their home’s condition. And, more importantly, it can arm seller’s with the facts they need to counter a buyer’s requests before making an offer or signing a purchase agreement. Once a seller is aware of major issues or repairs that need to be made, a seller has more time to prepare to address possible fixes, or to prepare for negotiations with buyers about those issues.

What happens during and after a pre-listing inspection?

During a pre-listing inspection, a seller hires a home inspector to examine every component of a home – from foundation and structure, to roofing and systems like plumbing, HVAC, and electrical. The inspector provides detailed descriptions of the condition of these components and identifies possible problems that may need repairs. The cost of the inspection varies based on the size of the home, but in the Seattle area prices start at around $500.

After the inspection, the inspector gives the seller a detailed, unbiased report about the home’s condition. The information in that report can equip a seller to better negotiate a purchase price or to plan for necessary repairs that can make the home more competitive on the market.

If you’re planning on selling your home and would like the peace of mind that comes with a pre-listing inspection, call South Sound Inspections today.

Backup Power Generator Safety

Backup Power Generator Safety

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A portable generator can be a lifesaver for homeowners during extreme weather conditions that knock out power grids. But generators can come with safety hazards like carbon monoxide emissions and electrical shock, so it’s important to understand how to use one correctly. Read on for more information about how to choose a generator and run it safely.  

FIND THE RIGHT WATTAGE

The first step is finding the right wattage generator to power your home based on what you need to keep running, such as a refrigerator, HVAC system, sump pump or lights. For example, a refrigerator typically needs 600-800 watts to function; a sump pump needs 1,500 watts; and a central air conditioning unit uses about 2,000 to 4,000 watts. 

To find the right generator for your home, add up the wattage for the appliances and systems that you need to keep running during an emergency. 

Then, follow this formula to determine the wattage generator you need:

Running Wattage (R) + Starting Wattage (Rx3) = TOTAL wattage.

If your running wattage is 500, add that to 1,500 (or 500 x 3) to get your starting wattage, which results in a total wattage of 2,000. 

HOOK UP YOUR GENERATOR SAFELY

For a simple, low wattage generator that is useful for powering only the essentials, like a refrigerator, microwave or stove for cooking, the basic steps  below may be helpful. Always consult the Owner’s Manual for directions for your specific model: 

  • Locate your generator outside the home, far enough away to prevent exposure to fumes produced when the generator is running. 
  • Fill the generator with gas (the same kind of fuel you’d use for a car), close the cap on the tank, and get a 12 gauge extension cord that will connect the generator to appliances in your home. 
  • After filling the tank and getting the cord, check the oil.
  • Turn the fuel line on.
  • Make sure that the generator is in “Choke” mode. 
  • Turn ON the generator. 
  • Start the engine by pulling cord like you would start a lawn mower. 
  • When engine is on change the choke button to “Run”
  • Plug the extension cord into one of the multiple outlets on the generator. 
  • Plug the other end of the extension cord into the appliance you need to power. 

When installing a larger wattage generator to power your entire home, you can use an InterLock kit or have a professional electrician install it for you to help ensure safety. Townships and municipalities have rules regarding these kinds of installations, so check your local electrical regulations before starting. 

MORE GENERATOR SAFETY TIPS

Here are a few tips to keep in mind, but always follow safety guidelines in your generator’s Owner’s Manual. 

  • Place the generator outside of your home. Running a generator can produce carbon monoxide, so it cannot be run in a basement or garage. Put the generator in a place where residents won’t be exposed to the fumes. 
  • Do NOT operate a generator under rainy or wet conditions. Wait until rain has passed to avoid risk of electrocution, and always operate the generator with dry hands. 
  • Do NOT plug the generator directly into a wall outlet. This is known as “backfeeding” and can put utility workers, your home’s residents and neighbors at risk of electrocution.
  • Fuel storage. Keep your generator fueled if you need to run it during power outage emergencies. Be sure to store fuel in a cool, dry place and you may also choose to use StaBil, a fuel stabilizer, when the generator is not in use to prevent fuel from thickening and gumming up the machinery. 

If you have questions or concerns about using a generator to power your home in emergencies, contact South Sound Inspections today. 

Fire Safety Tips For Your Home

Fire Safety Tips For Your Home

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Certain hazards and disasters like floods, winds and snow are out of your control as a homeowner, but there are certain steps you can take to prevent fires from starting inside your home. Although fires are a hazard that you would rather not think about, it’s still important to consider fire prevention measures. From smoke alarm maintenance to evaluating your home’s electrical components, you can take proactive steps to ensure your home is safe from potential fire hazards. Read on for fire safety tips for your home and signs home inspectors look for when assessing a home’s fire safety readiness. 


Check Your Smoke Alarms

Smoke alarms are probably the first fire prevention measure that most homeowners consider when ensuring a home is safe from fire hazards. Keeping your smoke alarms in good working condition is a key step in fire prevention. Follow these three tips for maintaining smoke alarms in your home:

  • Ensure there are smoke alarms on every floor of your home.
  • Develop a fire safety plan and escape route.
  • Keep exit paths on the escape route clear. Ideally you should be able to escape your home in two minutes or less. 
  • Test the smoke alarms each month.

Carbon Monoxide Detectors

In addition to smoke detectors, carbon monoxide detectors not only save lives, they are required by Washington state law.  Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless gas produced by incomplete combustion from vehicles or common appliances around your home such as gas powered lawn equipment, ovens, stoves, and furnaces. Carbon monoxide can be lethal within minutes. Installing a CO detector on each floor of your home, especially closest to sleeping areas, can allow you to act quickly and escape to fresh air. 


Fire Extinguishers

According to the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association), fire extinguishers should be both accessible and visible, and should be checked each month for functionality. During these checks make sure that the extinguisher is free of any physical damage.  Remember that fire extinguishers are meant to put out smaller, more contained fires, like those that start on a stovetop or in a wastebasket. Most homes require an “A” type fire extinguisher designed for ordinary combustibles. 


Potential Fire Hazards in the Home

After checking that smoke alarms and fire extinguishers are present and functioning, there are a few other areas that need attention. Check these spots to ensure they don’t pose a potential hazard:

  • Electrical outlets, wiring and panels. Make sure your home is free of overloaded power strips and that they’re not hot to the touch. They should also have proper air circulation. Also examine the electrical panel, and if there are any indications of a burnt plastic smell, burn marks or if you hear buzzing or crackling sounds, that could be a sign of a potential fire hazard. Extension cords and loose outlets should also be checked. 
  • Fireplace and chimney. Creosote buildup in a chimney could cause a fire, so be sure to check your chimney to ensure it’s free of buildup and debris. It’s a good practice to call a professional chimney sweep to get a thorough clean and evaluation. 
  • Dryer in laundry room. The laundry room is a commonly neglected area to check for fire hazards, but lint buildup in dryer vents can become a fire hazard. Clear lint and buildup from dryer vents to ensure optimal air circulation and that errant sparks won’t ignite lint buildup. 
  • Space heaters. These portable appliances can help keep you warm in the winter, but if they’re not used properly, can become potential fire hazards. Be sure that space heaters are placed at least 3 feet away from drapes, blankets or any other flammable materials, and turn them off when you leave the room. 


South Sound Inspections can help ensure your home is free of fire hazards. Call today for an objective assessment that can keep your family safe. 

What are Warning Signs of a Damaged Foundation?

What are Warning Signs of a Damaged Foundation?

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7 Common Foundation Issues

A foundation upholds the structure of a home, so it must be in good condition to ensure that your home is safe for you and your family. However, over time, foundations may develop issues that need to be addressed. It’s best to identify problems as soon as possible to help avoid costly repairs in the long run. Here are seven common foundation problems that you may be able to observe on your own before you call in a professional. 

Doors or Windows Not Fitting

Homeowners often blame sticking windows and doors on humidity or temperature changes; but, it could also be a sign of foundation issues. If you notice that your windows or doors are sticking or misaligned, your home’s foundation may be shifting or settling. When cracks develop around doors or windows, or if they’re starting to separate from the walls and don’t work properly, you should call a professional. 

Exterior or Interior Cracks 

Cracks that form outside your home along the foundation can signal serious issues. If the soil around the foundation is too wet from improper drainage, it can cause the foundation to crack. You may also notice cracks in kitchen or bathroom tiles if there’s foundation damage. A professional inspector will be able to assess the severity of a crack based on its size, water absorption, location, and whether or not it’s active. 

Leaks and Water Damage

If you notice any kind of dampness in your basement or crawlspace (whether by smell or by touch), or see leaks or any kind of water intrusion in the lower levels of your home, you should get your foundation checked out. Another worrisome sign is when water seeps into a basement due to a vertical crack. This could mean that there’s poor drainage around the foundation, which can weaken it over time. 

Sagging or Sloping Floors

Older homes may be more prone to sagging or sloping floors, but a new home in which the foundation was not properly constructed could also experience this problem. This issue may also appear on the exterior as shifting soil. A professional can evaluate the severity of this issue by examining how large of an area is sloped, determining whether or not the problem has worsened over time, and measuring the grade of the slope. 

Walls Pull Away from House

When you notice the walls separating from the ceiling, zig-zag cracks in drywall, or wall paper pulling away from the wall, this could be a sign that your home’s foundation is settling unevenly. When gaps appear suddenly, your home’s foundation may be experiencing rot or there may be an issue with the soil around your home. 

Nails Stick out of Drywall 

Sometimes nail pops in drywall can be caused by short drywall nails that are no longer attached to 2×4 studs; however, nails sticking out of drywall may also be a sign of foundation damage. When soil shifts due to poor drainage or grading related to foundation damage, a home’s drywall will also shift, causing nails to protrude. 

Expansion Joint Separation

Expansion joints are designed to compromise for any movement or settling that a home and its foundation may do after construction. These joints are built to adapt to forces like temperature changes, humidity and shifting soil. So, if you see that these joints are separating or causing widespread cracks, it may be time to get a professional examination of your foundation. 

If you notice one or more of these above issues, it may be a sign for a professional evaluation. Call South Sound Inspections today to identify foundation problems before they worsen. 

Different Roofing Shingle Types

Different Roofing Shingle Types

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What’s the Best Shingle Type for Your Home? 

Whether you’re looking to add new shingles to an existing roof, or if you’re building new construction and want to create the best possible roof, your choice of shingles can impact the lifespan of your roof and its ability to withstand the elements. Homes in the Pacific Northwest, with its particularly wet and damp weather, need to take extra care to make the right choice with shingles to best avoid issues like leaky roofs and water damage. Follow the guide below to learn which shingle type is best for your home. 

Asphalt 

Asphalt shingles, also known as composition shingles, are one of the most popular roof shingles types and are used on roofs of 4 out of every 5 homes in the U.S. Made from a base of organic felt or fiberglass topped with a spray of hot asphalt, these shingles boast many benefits: they’re affordable, fire resistant, easy to maintain and durable. They’re also aesthetically flexible because they come in a wide range of styles and colors, and can be manufactured to look like wood, cedar or slate. Asphalt shingles are known to last approximately 100 years. While their resistance to wind, rain, hail and snow makes them a great bet for the Pacific Northwest region, they are porous and may still be susceptible to mold and mildew growth, so be sure to check the shingles each year for maintenance purposes. 

Metal 

Among other materials, metal shingles can be made from aluminum, copper or stone-coated steel and they’re most commonly used in industrial or commercial buildings, though they are becoming more popular in the residential sector. Designed to withstand winds, hail, fire and heavy rain, metal shingles are also low maintenance: they require the occasional removal of leaves and debris after a heavy storm. Depending on the style of your home, metal shingles can be manufactured to look like other materials, like cedar shake or slate. Metal shingles can last from 40-70 years, but a few disadvantages are their high cost and difficulty in finding an exact color match if replacements are needed in the future. And in case you’re worried about noise, metal shingles are installed over wood, so you won’t hear rain drops during a storm. 

Rubber 

A lightweight, inexpensive option, rubber roofs come in three main types of single-ply membranes  that are glued into place and laid in one single piece (rather than individual shingles like asphalt or metal), resulting in very few seams and thus a tighter, more secure protection from water leaks. This is an eco-friendly roof option because it’s made from recycled materials. Rubber roofs can last up to 50 years or longer and maintenance is simple: if a crack or leak does develop, it can be repaired with a tube of liquid rubber. This option is great for low-slope or flat roofs with few penetrations like skylights and chimneys; but, because of the exact measurements involved, this can drive up the cost for installation. 

If you’re curious about the best roofing options for your home, or if you need your roof inspected for maintenance purposes, call South Sound Inspections today for an evaluation. 

Dryer Vent Safety

Dryer Vent Safety

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The Importance of Keeping Your Dryer Vents Clean

You depend on your dryer to tackle loads of clean clothes and to keep laundry day moving, which is why it’s important to care for your dryer’s vent system. If a dryer vent or duct is not properly maintained, it may lead to a fire hazard. Follow this guide to learn more about how a dryer vent works, what can cause a dryer vent fire, and tips for keeping your dryer safe for use. 

How A Dryer Vent Works

A dryer works by using either electric or gas power to create a system of heat, tumbling and air flow. First, the dryer draws in room temperature air and heats it using a heating element or burner. At the same time, a motor turns the drum of the dryer, allowing the damp clothing to tumble around while air circulates around the clothes. When hot air moves around the damp clothes, it creates steam that evaporates and is pushed out of the dryer by passing through a vent or an exhaust duct that opens to the outside of your home. 

What Can Cause a Fire

As the steam and evaporated air is transferred out of the dryer through its vent, it also carries with it tiny particles of clothing material that fall off during the tumbling process, commonly known as lint. Usually your dryer’s filter collects the majority of lint before it passes through the vent, but it is possible that some lint gets stuck in the vent or exhaust duct. If enough lint becomes trapped in the vent leading outside, this creates a barrier and means evaporated air gets stuck within the dryer system and cannot escape outside. When hot air cannot fully escape, it causes the dryer to overheat, which may result in mechanical failures triggering sparks, leading to trapped lint bursting into flames. 

Tips for Preventing a Dryer Vent Fire

There are some general dryer vent tips that may help to prevent a dryer fire. The first is to routinely clean out the dryer filter after each drying cycle, and to check that your dryer vent is working properly. Also make sure that your dryer vent meets the following three requirements:

  1. The dryer vent usually has a metal or plastic duct tube that leads outside, so make sure that this tube is fully connected to the back of your dryer and that there are no gaps between it and the dryer unit. 
  2. Check that there are no restrictions to the airflow going through the duct tube to the outside. If there are kinks in the flexible metal or plastic tubing, this can prevent air from being fully pushed out of the dryer. There are vent elbows that allow the duct to bend 90 degrees in small laundry room spaces. 
  3. Ensure that there is no lint blockage or accumulation anywhere in the vent duct. When the duct is blocked with lint, it prevents the dryer from expelling heat. This can lead to heat build-up in the unit and possibly result in a fire.


The International Association of Certified Home Inspectors estimates that in the year 2005 alone, fires caused by dryer malfunctions resulted in approximately $196 million worth of fire damage; but, these incidents can be prevented if you follow some basic maintenance tips. Call South Sound Inspections if you would like your dryer vent system evaluated to ensure your home’s safety. 

What is a Home Warranty?

What is a Home Warranty?

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Decide If a Home Warranty Is Right for You

If you’re in the market for a new home, you may have heard about home warranties or been asked if you’d like to purchase one. Among all the home-buying jargon you’ll be faced with on your real estate journey, “home warranty” is certainly a term you’ll want to research and learn more about before making a decision. Read on for more information about what a home warranty is, what it’s designed to do and how it may (or may not) be helpful for you in the future as a homeowner. 

What is a home warranty?

A home warranty is a contract between a homeowner and a warranty company that provides discounted repair or replacement services on home components like plumbing, electrical systems, HVAC and furnaces. A home warranty can also cover home appliances and add-ons like swimming pools, dishwashers, refrigerators, stoves, garbage disposals and washers/dryers. A home warranty does not cover windows, flooring, walls or sprinkler systems.  

It’s possible that the seller of a home may offer to purchase a home warranty on your behalf to provide assurance that if any home component breaks down, it can be fixed at an affordable price. 

A home warranty can cost several hundred dollars per year, and its purpose is to cover items that aren’t usually covered by homeowner’s insurance. Pay close attention to the language in your home warranty contract: most home warranty plans will not cover repairs or replacements for components that have not been properly maintained. 

How is a home warranty different from homeowner’s insurance?

Homeowner’s insurance provides financial protection for you, your home and your belongings in the case of extreme events, like fire, wind or snow, as well as property crimes like vandalism or theft. This kind of insurance provides coverage if you must repair your home’s structure, or sometimes other structures on your property, like a shed or guest house. It can also help repair or replace personal belongings.

What are the benefits of a home warranty?

The primary benefits of a home warranty are peace of mind and cost savings. You know that broken appliances or home components can be repaired at a reasonable price.

A home buyer may also feel reassured by a home warranty if they’re not familiar with how a home’s appliances or components have been maintained. A home warranty can be a good idea if you’re trying to keep costs low and if you’re not too handy with repairs. 

What are the drawbacks of a home warranty?

One of the main drawbacks of a home warranty is the issue of improperly maintained appliances or components. When a home warranty company sends a repair technician to fix an appliance or system, it’s up to the technician to decide if that appliance or system has been properly maintained. If the technician determines that the item was not properly maintained, no repairs will be done. This can sometimes be an excuse to deny valid claims.

No matter which route you choose with your home warranty decision, you can be sure that South Sound Inspections will be there to provide transparent, unbiased assessments of your home’s structure and components.  

Dealing With Termites in Your Home

Dealing With Termites in Your Home

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How to Prevent, Identify and Eliminate Termites

There’s about 40 different species of termites that can be found in the U.S. and they cause approximately $5 billion in damage each year. Unfortunately, homeowner’s insurance doesn’t cover termite damage. If you suspect that your home has termites, or if your home inspector has identified some termite red flags, read on for more info about how to deal with and prevent termite damage. 

What are termites?

Termites are insects with wings of equal length that live in underground colonies. They feast on decomposing plant materials and live in societies structured around a queen, soldiers and workers. Termites may look similar to ants, but they have straight antennae and thicker abdomens than ants. 

Termites cannot chew through concrete, but they can crawl through tiny cracks within concrete to get to wooden beams and structures within your home.

Where do they come from and what causes infestations?

Certain species of subterranean termites are native to the Western and Eastern United States.  Formosan termites were brought over to North America a few centuries ago and can destroy wood structures faster than other native subterranean species. 

Subterranean termites come up through the ground and into your home by way of mud tubes or tunnels that wind around concrete or metal. The nesting structures for one termite colony can be found within a 300 ft. diameter around your home. 

Common signs of termites

Termites can be elusive creatures, so you’ll notice signs of their damage before you see the insects themselves. When you observe holes in wood with a honeycomb appearance, you can be sure there’s a termite infestation.

If you find a swarm indoors, that’s a sign that termites have already destroyed your home’s wood structural elements.

Prevention and treatment

Use these four termite prevention tips to help identify an infestation. 

  • Inspect the quality of wood around your home’s basement, attic, or deck areas and tap on it to hear if it sounds hollow. If it does, that could be a sign of termite infestation.
  • Observe moisture buildup and try to keep indoor areas as dry as possible. 
  • Discard any unnecessary wood debris around your home, and make sure your firewood pile is not too close to your home. 
  • Ensure that mulch is not piled up too close to your home’s foundation. 

If there is a termite infestation, get help from a pest professional because termites are very difficult to treat on your own. 

A pest professional uses several different methods to treat termite infestation. One method is applying a liquid treatment around the home’s foundation by digging a trench filled with termiticide. 

Another method is inserting termite bait stations around the property. A bait station is a hollow plastic cylinder filled with plant material and a slow-acting insecticide that shortens the termite growth process and kills them while they molt. Within weeks of eating the bait, termites spread the insecticide amongst the colony and die in waves. 

A third method is tenting, a process where the entire home is covered in a tarp and termiticide is sprayed into it. This method will kill drywood termites, but isn’t effective for subterranean termites whose colonies spread underground beneath your home. 

If you suspect your home has a termite problem, call South Sound Inspections to get an expert opinion today. 

How to Adjust HVAC Dampers

How to Adjust HVAC Dampers

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Using HVAC Dampers to Improve Air Flow in Your Home

Unless you live in a perfect Mediterranean environment where the temperature remains at a comfortable level all year long, you most likely have to adjust your HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system with seasonal changes. In the winter, you want hot air to circulate throughout your home, and in the summer, cool air should fill all your rooms. Aside from switching your thermostat from “heat” to “cool,” a great way to regulate temperature and air flow is by adjusting your HVAC dampers. Similar to how a dam controls water flow, dampers control air flow. By opening or closing them, you can promote or prevent airflow to certain parts of your home. Read on for more info about how and when to use HVAC dampers. 

DAMPER LOCATION AND HOW IT WORKS

Not every home has HVAC dampers, but if yours does, they are found inside the ducts of your HVAC system. They look and function like flaps or shutters. If you have a two or three story home, the main air duct that runs from the mechanical room likely branches off into two or three different ducts to move air into each floor. On the sides of each of these ducts, you can see a screw and a wingnut that can be turned perpendicular or parallel to the direction of the duct. These wingnuts control the direction of the dampers, or flaps, inside. Some homes have automatic dampers that can be adjusted via a digital display within the thermostat.  

In order to adjust the damper, you can use a pair of pliers to turn the wingnut up or down. If your air duct runs parallel to the floor, keeping the wingnut parallel to the bottom of the duct keeps the damper open. If you switch the wingnut’s position to point down, perpendicular to the bottom of the duct, you close the damper.

USING DAMPERS DURING THE SUMMER

During the hot summer months, you want cool air to circulate into each area of your home. As hot air rises, your top level floor will need increased airflow to feel cool. In this case, adjust the dampers to be fully open in the ducts that push air to the top floors. This will help force more cool air in places that naturally become warmer due to convection. 

USING DAMPERS DURING THE WINTER

During the cooler months, bottom floors should get more heat. Because hot air rises, your home’s top floors will naturally already be warmer. In this case, you’ll want to limit hot air flow to the top floors by closing the dampers to those areas and opening the dampers for the bottom floors. 

ADJUSTING AIR REGISTERS

In addition to adjusting your HVAC damper, you can also adjust the air registers in each room to regulate the flow of hot or cold air. Air registers are usually in the ceiling or on the floor. You can either close them entirely or narrow the air flow to maintain ideal room temperatures. 

If you’re finding that your rooms are still too hot in the summer, or too cold in the winter, contact South Sound Inspections to get a full assessment of your HVAC system and dampers to ensure the best possible climate for your home. 

Porch and Deck Safety

Porch and Deck Safety

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Identifying Safety Issues with Your Porch, Deck or Balcony

Porches, decks and balconies are great additions to any home, but they can also pose dangers when not maintained properly. Hazards like loose railings, gaps between deck boards and rusted fasteners are common in homes where decks and porches are left in poor condition. Read on for tips on how to identify and prevent common porch and deck safety issues. 

Loose Railings

Lagging screws in from the outside when building a railing can result in loose railings and pose a hazard to anyone leaning against it. Ideally, rail posts mounted to the interior of a frame can be strengthened by installing blocking around the post, creating a kind of pocket for it and making it sturdier. For railing posts connected to the outside of the frame, you can strengthen the rail by tightening the bolts and installing blocking to the rim joist. Also check that carriage bolts go all the way through to ensure a tighter fit for railings. 

Gaps in Butt Joints 

Too much room between the ends, or butt joints, of deck boards can pose a tripping hazard, and too large of a gap can cause the wood in your deck to crack. Leaves and debris can also build up in those gaps, resulting in the wood rotting out more quickly. One solution for this (if you have a deck that’s over 20 feet long or wide), is installing a breaker board that runs perpendicular to the deck surface. This can help ensure that deck boards are all kept to the same length and can reduce wood expansion. 

Wobbly Ground Connection

If the posts connecting your elevated deck to the ground are a bit loose or don’t seem stable, make sure that each post is firmly attached to a concrete pier at the bottom and to the deck frame at the top. Posts should be connected to a concrete pad and raised at least 8 inches above the ground to prevent water damage. Check for water damage to the bottom of the post by pushing an awl into the wood. If the wood is soft or spongy, it’s best to replace the post. 

Rusted Fasteners and Connections

Your porch or deck is held together by steel materials like screws, bolts and other fasteners that can rust or degrade from exposure to moisture and rain. Usually porch and deck fasteners are made out of galvanized steel, but they can still become unsound over time. Make sure that these are free of rust and have no loose connections. 

Mold and Mildew Growth

Especially common in the Pacific Northwest, decks that take on a greenish cast or become host to mushrooms and fuzzy mold need attention. Use a water and bleach solution to spray your deck’s surface to prevent damage from rotting wood. Staining your deck or porch every few years can also protect wood by adding a critical barrier from the elements.

Weak Ledger Board Connections

Many of the stories you hear about deck or balcony collapses occur because of weak ledger board connections. A deck ledger board operates on the same principle as a chair: the front chair legs are self-supporting, but the back legs are linked to the backing of the chair. Similarly, a ledger board connects the supporting deck posts that are farthest from the home to the posts closest to the home. When the ledger board isn’t fastened properly – when the posts closest and farthest from the home are not fully connected across the deck – the deck can pull away from the home and eventually fall. 

If you’re concerned about the safety and maintenance of your porch, deck or balcony, contact South Sound Inspections for a thorough, objective assessment. 

How to Read a Home Inspection Report

How to Read a Home Inspection Report

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Your Guide to Understanding the Home Inspection

Scheduling a home inspection is a critical step during the home buying process, but few potential home buyers take into account the importance of reading and understanding the home inspection report. The average cost for a home inspection around the Seattle area is over $500, and the inspection itself can range from 2 to 4 hours. The report (which can be anywhere from 15 to 70 pages ) is usually delivered within 24-48 hours of the actual inspection, and it provides an objective, unbiased assessment of the home’s conditions. Once you have the report, you’re armed with information that can help you and your realtor negotiate the home’s final price. Your home inspector will also be available to answer any questions that you may have about the report. Here’s what you can expect to see in your home inspection report: 

General info about property and inspection conditions

This first section of the report lists the property’s address, date and time of inspection and the weather conditions on the day of the inspection. This section also mentions the property’s category (single family home, condominium or townhome, etc.) and what areas couldn’t be accessed during the inspection. 

Detailed assessment of systems and components

The home inspection report covers six major areas: structural components, exterior features, roof components, plumbing, HVAC, and electric. The report also details the conditions of each room, including windows, walls, ceiling, and floor issues with the goal of identifying imminent problems. Since the home inspector does not have access to septic systems or wells, these components are not included in the report. 

To categorize the issues related to each home component, the report uses these symbols and codes: 

  • F = Functional. All components are in good working condition.
  • NI = Not inspected. This may occur in cases where doors were locked and the home inspector could not access a certain room or area of the home. 
  • AE = Additional evaluation recommended. This indicates that the inspector needs more information to determine if there’s an issue. 
  • S = Safety concerns. The report will show this code when a condition may pose a health risk.
  • R = General repair. This indicates an area that needs correction but isn’t an urgent issue.
  • D = Defect. Areas in this category are non-functioning or damaged. 

Keep in mind that the home inspection report does not list estimates for home repairs or replacements. 

Photos of home components 

You’ll also find photos of the exterior and interior of your home, including the roof components, foundation, landscaping, along with areas of the basement, attic or crawlspace. Your home inspector may use a drone to photograph the roof components and a thermal imaging camera to document temperature changes that may occur due to insulation issues, wiring problems, or excess moisture. The photos taken with these devices may be included when conditions don’t meet standards. 

Summary and rating for identified issues

The summary page presents the main causes for concern and suggestions for repairs to ensure safety and livability. This page provides a subject for discussion between you and your realtor when it comes to negotiating home repair costs within the final sale price. If the property requires extensive repairs, this may greatly impact negotiations. 

South Sound Inspections provides reliable, unbiased property inspection services with inspectors who are ready to answer your questions and concerns. Call South Sound Inspections to schedule an appointment today. 

Common Interior and Exterior Drainage Problems

Common Interior and Exterior Drainage Problems

home maintenance,InformationNo Comments

How To Spot Home Drainage Issues

With the spring season approaching, rain storms can be great for keeping your lawn and garden lush, but too much water can also cause problems. When water cannot drain properly inside or outside your home, it can result in costly damage. Here’s what you should know about interior and exterior drainage issues and their possible solutions. 

EXTERIOR DRAINAGE ISSUES

Overflowing Gutters

If pools of water are gathering under your roof eaves, or if the siding on one side of your home is discolored, your home may have overflowing gutters. The gutters can overflow when they’re not positioned correctly, aren’t large enough, or if there’s debris blocking the gutter or downspout. Be sure to clean gutters regularly and purchase new hardware to ensure that the gutters are positioned correctly. 

Ponding Water

Poorly draining soil and low spots in the yard can cause ponding water. To address this draining problem, dethatching and aerating may be necessary. If the ponding water is due to an improperly graded lawn or slope, you may need to install a French drain, which can re-route the flow of water. 

Cracks in Foundation 

Lack of proper drainage near your home’s foundation can cause cracks in the foundation. When hydrostatic pressure builds up in the ground and presses against foundation walls, it can result in cracked or bowed walls. The solution may be foundation underpinning using piers, but you should also examine the area to take care of other causes, such as plumbing leaks or overflowing gutters and downspouts.

INTERIOR DRAINAGE ISSUES

Wet Cracks in Basement Floor

Similar to cracks in the foundation, wet cracks in a basement floor can also be caused by a buildup of hydrostatic pressure. If your foundation sits on a very absorbent soil, like clay, then the ground can absorb a lot of water which builds up beneath the basement floor. It’s possible that filling cracks with epoxy or urethane can help, or another solution can be installing a drainage system around the perimeter of the basement. 

Damp Basement Walls and Floors

Water can seep into your basement from the ground surrounding the basement walls and lead to condensation, which makes the walls feel damp. One small-scale solution to this could be installing a dehumidifier, and a large-scale solution could be regrading soil around the foundation walls.  

Odors

Unpleasant smells can be a sign of mold or mildew growing in your basement. You can diagnose the severity of the issue by seeing if exposed pipes in the ceiling or along the walls exhibit signs of “sweating” and insulate them. Also check for water leaking down from windows. One solution to this problem is getting rid of any water-damaged materials in your basement and neutralizing the smell by placing bowls of baking soda and/or vinegar around the area. 

Sump Pump

There are a variety of issues that you may encounter with a sump pump: continuous running; lost power; clogging; no water in the pit; and, an overwhelmed sump pump. Because your sump pump is responsible for moving water out of your basement and away from your home, you want to quickly address issues with it. An overwhelmed sump pump could mean that you need to upgrade a size so it can keep up with a higher volume of water, and a clogged sump pump may need to be covered with an airtight lid to prevent debris from entering. 

These are just some drainage issues you should be aware of, but call South Sound Inspections to get a thorough assessment of your home’s drainage system. 

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